Hey Everyone, Newbie here to the site.
First off here’s the background
Ender 3v2
recently upgraded the hot end to a (Micro swiss NG) After a 3 mile island meltdown.
I have a CR touch and I’m running Marlin-2.01
Installed a duel z axis
I think that’s the basics, if you need more please let me know. Here is what’s going on. I will get a good laydown (at least it looks good to me) after about 20 mins or so I will come back to check and the picture I have included is a example of what I end up with. This picture was supposed to be a ball in a box. I have tried several different prints all with the same results. Again I will get a good skirt, a good waste line. The printer will start and it seems like after 15-20 mins it goes to CRAP, NO IT DOES GO TO CRAP…
Before I had the meltdown I had printed a flexi print , a frog to be exact came out perfect. But it seems like after I have gone back and updated, upgraded I have not had any luck printing anything.
Oh yeah I’m printing with OVV3D filament PLA Shiny Silk tri-color
using the settings recommended on the filament
speed recommended 25-45mm/s I’m running 35, bed temp recommended 0-60c I’m running 63 printing temp recommended 192-220c I’m running 225c
I have also tried running different filaments, with the same results.
If anyone has any suggestions I would really be grateful .
And if you need anymore information please let me know. Really getting tied of wasting filament.
I had similar issue and my problem was that the center was not sticking to the bed as good as it should and after a couple of layers it came loose. My fix was to clean and clean, and use the Goo stick. For this one print you might want to check z hight that it is enabled… I’m not an expert but this is some things that I ran across and what I did. I’m sure someone with more experance than me will come along in a bit.
But the mention of Three Mile Island made me chuckle. Back a while ago I was listing to a Harrisburg radio station and they were announcing that the sirens were going to be tested a a certain time. So being that I worked out of Harrisburg I text my boss and told her that there was going to be testing going on at TMI. She texted me back and said be careful what you text as someone from HR might see the text. I thought to my self what the heck is she talking about. So the next day when I was at the shop I asked her… well to her TMI stands for “Too Much Information”. I laughed and asked if she heard the sirens she said Yes… I said see… “Three Mile Island” Oh… she in her 30’s
I usually go for the middle of the temperature range, so 205-210 is fine and I use a print speed of 55mm (60 is default). The temperature range is useful for the speed. If you print faster you can go higher. A slower print needs lower temperatures. This worked for me with all PLA types I printed.
The bed temperature depends on the print surface you are using. You are NOT printing at 63°C. The sensor is at the bottom. With glass and a little air gap you are usually 5°C-10°C lower on the top, where the filament settles.
However. 63°C should be ok, if you are using a thick kind of glass surface. If it is something other, e.g. a sheet metal. It is to high. In that case you are way to high as the 63°C is over the melting point and your print will stay soft at the build plate, which causes the print to loosen. In combination with a too hot filament (your 225°C) the filament has no time to cool properly and it oozes out of your nozzle causing bumps the print heat crashes into ripping off the print for good. You also reduced the print speed, which is worsen the issue and the nozzle heat kicks in even harder. Speeds below 30mm/s are for TPU prints. Every PLA can handle 55++mm/s.
Lower your temperatures, reset the speed to 55mm/s (First layer 50%) and maybe use some glue stick for the bed until the rest is settled in. When using Cura the default settings work quite well. I just need to adapt the temperatures and lower the speed to the values above and it prints fine. The printer itself does not matter.
The ball part of the print might be the problem. It will have a small surface on the bed and could be coming loose resulting in the TMI syndrome; i.e., not enough bed adhesion. Try printing a calibration cube to see if that comes out ok. If it does, confirm that the printer is laying down a good first layer by printing a 1-layer thick square over the same area of the failing print. If the 1-layer square looks uniform with the right amount of “squish”, then try increasing bed adhesion using one of these steps: clean the bed with Isopropyl alcohol; add a brim around only where the ball contacts the bed (and smaller than the cube); or try a raft (always the last resort).
It is challenging to talk generically about print temperatures as the properties of filaments vary from manufacturer due to the additives used. I’ve had great success with bed temperatures of 65C for the first layer and 60C for the remaining layers, but it could be that 63C is “too hot” and causing a loss of bed adhesion. For nozzle temperature, printing a temperature tower is the best way to pick a temperature, but if I’m in a hurry I’ll start at the middle of the manufacturers recommended range: 205C for the OVV3D tri-color (I suspect that 225C is not a major problem but might be a contributing factor to the failure.)
Thanks everyone for the info. Still new ( what am I saying, I am new) to this printing stuff.
I blame my oldest son, for talking me into it.
I will try a little of everything you all say. I was thinking the higher the bed temp the better I am, guess not, I will also be speeding my prints up.
Defiantly not cut and dry,
Like I tell my Techs, if it was easy everyone would be doing it right.
I will be getting back to let ya’ll know how things turned out.
Latest up,
Went in blew out the original profile.
Lowered the print temp, and bed temps, speed up, think my z-axis offset is still a little low going to raise some more. But at least I got a good print
