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I Got A Pi !

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  • I Got A Pi !

    Well, I did it; I bought a Raspberry Pi 3 B+. I also bought a 3A USB adapter with a USB cable that has a pushbutton for power.

    So far, I've installed OctoPrint & the Bed Level Visualizer. The 1st thing I printed is the 20x20 mm 1-layer squares I use to set the Z Offset. Now, it's printing a new deflector for cat fountain. I'll post about it in Pictures Of Your Builds.

    Now, a question for everyone. What case should I print for the Pi? And, where should I install it on my Ender 5? I'm thinking it might be nice to print a case that has a couple of tabs so it can be attached, on edge, to the 4020 or 2020 frame parts, but I'm completely open to other ideas.

  • #2
    Hi,
    On my ender5, I modified this one by adding a couple of 'ears':
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3016364

    And mount it on the front right vertical rail. This is a thin case but I like it better that the full case that I did on a different printer and it was a modded to use ears to mount it. It was also designed to contain a buck converter to supply the PI.

    I have the modded files for both in Fusion 360 if they would be any help.

    Country Bubba

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    • #3
      I use F360 too, so the files would be helpful. Thx. Do you also have a pic of it mounted to your printer?

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      • #4
        I got my Pi case off Thingiverse and it just sits on the desk. I took a piece of Kaplon tape and insulated the + tab in USB plug. That way the Pi doesn't power the display.

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        • #5
          Don't forget to install a second instance for your next printer! 😁

          Cheers

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          • #6
            Can you share a photo or diagram on where you applied the tape?

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            • #7
              MambaRoja, Gramps put a piece of insulating tape over the 5V pin 'inside' the USB. There are 4 ways you can do it:
              • on the USB cable, put a piece of tape over Pin 1 in the micro-USB male connector that plugs into the printer
              • on the USB cable, put a piece of tape over Pin 1 in the type-A male connector at the other end of the USB cable (the 1 that plugs into the Pi)
              • on the Pi, place a piece of tape over Pin 1 in the female type-A connector
              • use a sharp Exacto knife, or similar, to actually lift up & remove the Pin 1 connector in any of the places listed above. I would recommend using this technique only on a USB cable, so as not to damage a port on a circuit board.
              Here's an image from Wikipedia (pin 1 is the 5V power pin):

              Last edited by Ender5r; 01-23-2021, 02:18 PM.

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              • #8
                Ender5r,
                I don't have any pics right now, but will dig out my camera in the morning and try to get something decent of each of them.
                Country Bubba

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Ender5r View Post
                  MambaRoja, Gramps put a piece of insulating tape over the 5V pin 'inside' the USB. There are 4 ways you can do it:
                  • on the USB cable, put a piece of tape over Pin 1 in the micro-USB male connector that plugs into the printer
                  • on the USB cable, put a piece of tape over Pin 1 in the type-A male connector at the other end of the USB cable (the 1 that plugs into the Pi)
                  • on the Pi, place a piece of tape over Pin 1 in the female type-A connector
                  • use a sharp Exacto knife, or similar, to actually lift up & remove the Pin 1 connector in any of the places listed above. I would recommend using this technique only on a USB cable, so as not to damage a port on a circuit board.
                  Here's an image from Wikipedia (pin 1 is the 5V power pin):

                  Great explanation Ender5r I put the tape over pin 1 on the type connector. Kapton tape is very thin and sticky, also heat resistant. I cut a thin strip of the Kapton tape and used an Exato knife to get it inside the housing. I can try taking a picture when the printer finishes it's current job. This is the tape I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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                  • #10
                    I updated my Anet A8 to AM8 and needed a new case, when I upgrade from a Pi1 to a Pi2: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:892838

                    Works great. I use the same case on my TronXY X5.

                    Click image for larger version  Name:	AM8_Pi2_2.jpg Views:	1 Size:	2.21 MB ID:	7903 Click image for larger version  Name:	AM8_Pi2_4.jpg Views:	1 Size:	291.7 KB ID:	7904

                    Originally posted by MambaRoja View Post
                    Can you share a photo or diagram on where you applied the tape?
                    I did it the cheap way, as tape may rub off and depending on the printer hardware the result may kill your power supply.

                    Click image for larger version  Name:	3DPrinter_USBPowerCut.jpg Views:	1 Size:	1.47 MB ID:	7902

                    I used a small wood hand drill to get behind the contact and when I was deep enough I snapped it off. Takes just a minute or so and lasts forever unlike tape, which may get rubbed in/out/off when unpluging/repluging the cable.

                    I did this with all my 3d printers cables. All you have to remember is that the connected device needs to have its own power supply.

                    I use normal PC power supplies on all of my printers. The Pi is powered by the standby-Power line and can turn on the printer in the same way as the power button does activate a pc, which is very handy. With the PSUControl plugin for octoprint the printer turns off after 15 minutes of inactivity and only if the nozzle is cool enough.
                    Last edited by Geit; 01-24-2021, 01:40 PM.

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                    • #11
                      Ender5r,
                      Well, late morning, but at least its still morning here:})
                      T1 and T2 show the "Full sized" case that I have on one printer and the bottom of it is designed to also house a buck converter to power the Pi. The ears uses standard M4 screws and tee nuts to hold it to a vertical rail of the printer. Power is pulled from the main power supply for the printer and comes on when you power the whole rig up.

                      E1 shows the "Low height" box that I have on the other printer. Again it was modified with the ears to mount it to the vertical rail with standard hardware. In this case, It is again powered by a buck converter, but it is remotely located from the Pi but still comes on when the rig is powered. Oh and the wires coming out of the GPIO is for a filament out sensor

                      In both cases, couldn't get to the other side to give a good shot!

                      If you still want the files, let me know and I will remove my 'logo' and put them up.

                      Have a great day.

                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by Country_Bubba; 01-24-2021, 11:49 AM.
                      Country Bubba

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                      • #12
                        I like them, especially, the enclosed 1. If you are willing, I would like to download them.

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                        • #13
                          Kapton tape on my type A USB plug. This is the end that goes to the RPi so it doesn"t get unplugged/plugged much, very fairly.

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                          • #14
                            Ender5r,
                            Dang gmail sent the notification to spam bucket and I just happened to check.

                            OK, let me clean up the files cause I doubt you want the "Logos" and will upload in fusion format.

                            Country Bubba

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Gramps View Post
                              Kapton tape on my type A USB plug. This is the end that goes to the RPi so it doesn"t get unplugged/plugged much, very fairly.
                              Good job! Thanks for sharing.

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