Welcome to the DrVAX Community.
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
As our community grows, it has become a bit harder to keep up with new posts. Here are some things that will help.
When you view a topic, there are two tabs at the top of the posts, one is called "posts," the other is called "latest activity." If you click on "posts," the newest replies will be on the bottom. If you click on "latest activity," the latest responses will be on the top.
If you want to be notified when new topics are created in a forum make sure you click on the subscribe button on the top right of the page.
Thanks for participating in the DrVax community. Irv
Folks,
Forum user Geit gave me a helpful push and I learned how to added additional attachment types to our forums. You can now attach/upload FCStd, F3d and STL files. In addition I have increased the PDF file size limit so I can more easily upload DrVAX video slides decks.
All the best. Irv
What is causing these awful layer shifts? My printer was replaced by Monoprice (Maker Select Plus) and its still doing it. I thought it might be bad code from the source, but this happens on a few things i i prprt from different sources.
What print speed are you using. What is your bed surface? (glass, pei, magnetic etc), what your 3d printer? This seems to be common for printers that have the y axis move the bed. (like my ender 3, once i added the glass bed which added extra weight)
It can be caused by a few things:
1. check your belts are tight. (can cause the slippage of teeth)
2. check your bed adhesion (might be the print shifting, try using a larger raft)
3. Lower your acceleration and jerk settings. (500mms acceleration and 8mms jerk - in your slicer settings)
4. Print at slower print speed (50mms)
5. Enable z hop
Once these are all done, you shouldnt have this issue.
Cheers.
we have been talking as well and I also have the monprice MP10 printer and the using the creality profile did seem to help alot as well and I also tighten the belt as well. I still have the problem on bed adhesion when I use a skirt and not raft for some reason. I also notice when I run the extruder temp up around 240 for PLA and the bed at 60 and slow it down on the first layer to 15 and the over speed down to 30 it seems to help depending on what I am printing. The only question that I do have when I want to get the bed sticky before i print I have used magigo and also elmers glue stick once they dry from the heat they are not sticky anymore. It seems I have to take a hot cloth with water and right before it prints wet it down ocne again. I am using the removable bed plate right now.
Below is a checklist for fixing layer shifts from a book I have. It overlaps with what you've checked and what Maximo101 posted. I posted the whole thing for completeness.
Hope it helps!
Clear the printing path of your carriages from any obstructions. – Zip tie all wires and loose cords, and maintain a clean printing area.
Confirm end stops are in the correct spots and that the frame is built correctly so that when you home the nozzle it is in the furthest part of the corner that it can be.
Check for errors in model or reslice if G-code is corrupted.
Increase z-hop, turn off combing, use lines for infill to prevent nozzle from hit- ting the print on large layer heights.
Make sure belts are tight enough (but not too tight).
Do not over tighten bed corners.
Make sure the rods are not dry or that any bearings are broken.
Replace any bent rods.
Reduce your acceleration and/or speed.
Increase or decrease the current going to your stepper drivers (if you are confi- dent the stepper is underpowered).
Check to see if your stepper or drivers are malfunctioning or overheating.
Make sure your pulleys are attached tight to your stepper motor shaft and can- not spin freely.
I used glue briefly but now don't use anything on my glass bed. I just make sure it's clean with isopropyl alcohol 70% spray and wet lint free cloth. Ensure bed is level, nozzle perfect distance for first layer and initial layer speed 25mm then slow layers 2-3 then 50mm speed for the test of the print.
you may need to do flow test and adjust the flow accordingly.
I don't use anything on my glass be either. I find that a bed temp of 60C is good for PLA, while I use 80C for PETG. BTW, the glass I use is just a piece of picture frame glass I had sitting in the basement. I but it to fit, and it's working great.
Oh, Maximo101, don't you find the smell of the alcohol evaporating of the hot bed kind of like maple syrup? It seems quite sweet to me.
I have another question how do you keep the picture glass to stay on the bed and I just got a Roll or makerbot PLA 3.0 orange filament and My roll that I got with my machine monprice MP10 came with a 1.75 can I use the 3.0 with the machine alone as I set the right materail in the settings
Yes, it's just regular glass. I wasn't sure it would be OK, but I had it in the basement, so I thought I'd give it a try, mainly to see if it would crack under the temperature changes, which it hasn't..... at least not yet.
okay would you suggest it over the black bed plate that comes with it and here are the pictures of what the first layer looks like and a finish boat as well. Let me know if you have any suggestions that might help. the boat printed great now I am printing a jungle boat.
I still have the black magnetic bed, but I'm using the glass instead. It seems to be working quite well, and glass gives a nicer finish on the bottom and should be flatter.
Tweet
Comment