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Thanks for participating in the DrVax community. Irv
Folks,
Forum user Geit gave me a helpful push and I learned how to added additional attachment types to our forums. You can now attach/upload FCStd, F3d and STL files. In addition I have increased the PDF file size limit so I can more easily upload DrVAX video slides decks.
All the best. Irv
It would depend on if your going to print with something other then PLA. Even then you can upgrade to a all metal hot end and print with most other filaments. I would at least upgrade the extruder to a all metal one (what i did) and capricorn bowden tube and Pneumatic Fittings with all metal teeth (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and maybe even a hardened metal nozzle (like this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Over the past 4+ months I've found that manually leveling is somewhat hit & miss. I think this is because it's very hard to be completely consistent with the amount of friction between the nozzle & the print bed. I confirmed this for myself by printing the 4 squares I mentioned in another thread. They showed me very clearly which corners had to much clearance & which had too little. Hopefully, when I get my BL Touch, it will eliminate the need for the squares.
Direct drive works better than bowden and this is a fact. If you like to upgrade from bowden to direct, you must choose a good extruder. By my personal opinion, BONDTECH extruder is number 1 choice. These extruders can handle all types of filament, from softest like 70 ShoreA up to hardest with ease.
Thanks for the comment. I am modifying all of my mounts for the OmniaDrop to use a quick change system. I think this will be a big improvement in the ability to change hot ends in about a minute. They will also be able to be interchanged between my linear rail Ender 5 and my new Exosldie Ender 5 PLus.
Direct drive works better than bowden and this is a fact. If you like to upgrade from bowden to direct, you must choose a good extruder. By my personal opinion, BONDTECH extruder is number 1 choice. These extruders can handle all types of filament, from softest like 70 ShoreA up to hardest with ease.
I agree with you as far as the stock hot end goes but a all metal hot end (like this one https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==) fixes a lot of the problems that i was having with the stock one on the ender 3 V2. Found on the stock hot end the bowden tube was getting to hot and causing major clugs. The all metal one doesn't have the bowden tube going down to the nozzle so doesn't get hot like all the stock one.
I just went through all my Amazon purchases on amazon.com and ,ca and can't seem to find a record. Perhaps I bought it somewhere else. I have no idea for the moment. Wait I know how to find it. https://www.amazon.com/sp?seller=A1W407K4GXJCPV But I can't find the transaction on either site.
Yep that is my next upgrade i need to measure the distance on the right front left front and back right. The back left on the ender 3 V2 has the cable strain relief for the bed heater on that screw so its size will be different then the other 3
Yep that is my next upgrade i need to measure the distance on the right front left front and back right. The back left on the ender 3 V2 has the cable strain relief for the bed heater on that screw so its size will be different then the other 3
I do agree they're fairly costly. I was wondering why. I suspect it's the combination of materials, which I can only assume are set to minimize any shrinkage or expansion of the mounts themselves.
I may just remove my z-axes limit switch as it is not needed anymore then bottom out the springs (tighten them all the way) then raise them so that they are level with the back left spring (the one with the bed heater cable attached to it). That should keep the bed from moving very much.
I have never really used a BL Touch, but I don't think it is quite that easy. I had one on my Ender 5 Plus stock, and removed it within a week and replaced it with an EZABL. I do remember it had 5 wires, can't remember where they all went.
I wasn't trying to suggest that's all you have to do; only that the cable from the Z Axis Limit Switch gets unplugged from the controller board and the BL Touch 2-wire cable gets plugged in. I realize there is more to do such as connecting the other 3 wires, and enabling BL Touch in the firmware.
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