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  • prints popping off

    Total noob to printing problems.
    What would be causing my prints to pop off the build plate? I've been trying to print off some heat towers with new filament. The tower keeps popping off the plate at around the 210-215 degree range. Friday I was 2/3 of the way into a 3 hour print when the model was pulled off the plate. Nothing like seeing a huge pile of filament around your model. Thanks in advance.

  • #2
    The temperature of the build plate matters. For PLA I use around 60°C, but this depends on the material you are using as print surface. Just keep in mind that the sensor is at the bottom and the print is on the top. There is usually around 5°C difference. Since I print on a 3mm glass plate, I set my temperature to 65°C and usually give the plate a little more.

    Narrowing the nozzle to the build place can help, too.

    Without knowing what surface and filament type you use, there is not much additional help I can provide yet.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Geit View Post
      ... Narrowing the nozzle to the build place can help, too. ...
      i.e., Z-offset; what do the undersides of those towers look like?

      Originally posted by Geit View Post
      ... Without knowing what surface and filament type you use, there is not much additional help I can provide yet.
      As stated, details help! Material, temps, bed type, build plate adhesion settings and printing adhesives all affect part adhesion. Also, I ran into one temp tower STL that had a malformed base plate for the tower which caused me adhesion problems.

      Cheers!

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      • #4
        All of the responses so far plus, photos. They can help a lot. Make sure they are well lit, clear, and sharp.

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        • #5
          I agree with Ender5r, a picture is worth a thousand words, or so it is said anyway. 😀

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          • #6
            Well cleaned print surface is a absolute must too.
            I use isopropyl alcohol to clean my glasbed before every print. Never had adhesion problems

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            • #7
              I followed the DrVAX advice to use Magigoo. One of its greatest attributes is that it releases prints from the printbed after the bed cools down. It's funny to hear the sounds it makes as the bed cools. It sounds like ice cracking. The good news? once the bed is cool (and the cracking has stopped) the model will lift right off the bed without effort.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Ender5r View Post
                I followed the DrVAX advice to use Magigoo. One of its greatest attributes is that it releases prints from the printbed after the bed cools down. It's funny to hear the sounds it makes as the bed cools. It sounds like ice cracking. The good news? once the bed is cool (and the cracking has stopped) the model will lift right off the bed without effort.
                Same happens with PLA and a glass bed without any glue. When I need a perfect first layer (Print in Place) or have tiny parts that join the bigger part on a higher layer, I use "UHU Stic". It works like a charm, is cheap and when you want to clean the build plate, you can use plain water.

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                • #9
                  Hatchbox PLA, was experimenting with bed temp and these were set at 55 degrees. Using just the stock Monoprice bed on the MP10, but am using a white Elmers gluestick for adhesion. I don't seem to have any problems printing these same towers on my select mini. The MP 10 just seems to get to a certain height and then pop the prints off.

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                  • #10
                    You might try a bed temp of 65C or even 70C.

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                    • #11
                      Maybe tune the PID of your bed. Inconsistent temperature may cause the print to pop of the bed.
                      it’s worth a try and shouldn’t take long

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by landrus60 View Post
                        Hatchbox PLA, was experimenting with bed temp and these were set at 55 degrees. Using just the stock Monoprice bed on the MP10, but am using a white Elmers gluestick for adhesion. ... The MP 10 just seems to get to a certain height and then pop the prints off.
                        I like the bottom layers a tad more "squished." I'd try lowering the z-offset by 0.02-0.05 mm. For PLA (currently using Hatchbox white), I use an initial bed temperature of 65C and lower it to 60C afterwards, fwiw. I doubt the latter makes much difference. The attached image is from a part printed on my MP10 mini with the stock plate.

                        Hope this helps!

                        Cheers

                        Click image for larger version  Name:	Bottom_MP10mini.jpg Views:	0 Size:	96.5 KB ID:	4188

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Michael View Post
                          Maybe tune the PID of your bed. Inconsistent temperature may cause the print to pop of the bed.
                          it’s worth a try and shouldn’t take long
                          Sounds like something over my head. Not sure how to access the PID, let alone tune it.

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                          • #14
                            It’s no big deal


                            just follow this tutorial and you should be fine.


                            Learn how to fine tune your 3D Printer with hotend PID tuning and heatbed PID tuning. Get more consistent prints by performing the 3D Printer calibration.

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                            • #15
                              Looks like your nozzle may be too far from the bed on the initial layer. I use regular paper for distance between nozzle and bed, make sure bed is level. I print PLA on a 60 degree heated bed.

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