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Trouble generating support enforcers in Prusaslicer.

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  • Trouble generating support enforcers in Prusaslicer.

    I have watched three tutorials on generating support enforcers and blockers but as soon as I slice it they disappear. If anyone can guess what I am doing wrong?

  • #2
    I've not tried Prusaslicer, but in Cura there is an option to turn off the viewing of supports (called Helpers). Maybe its equivalent is off in Prusaslicer. If that's not the case, I'd try printing a small test sample.

    Let us know what the fix is!

    Cheers

    Comment


    • #3
      I've tried everything. I'm sure it's just a little thing I'm doing wrong because I see and manipulate the supports ubtil I slice and then they disappear and they don't print either. I shall keep people informed when I find the solution so no one else has this problem. I am wondering now if I am making a similar mistake somehow with my m600 filament change command.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by roon4660 View Post
        I've tried everything. I'm sure it's just a little thing I'm doing wrong because I see and manipulate the supports ubtil I slice and then they disappear and they don't print either. I shall keep people informed when I find the solution so no one else has this problem. I am wondering now if I am making a similar mistake somehow with my m600 filament change command.
        If the m600 command is not there, it cannot work. Well, beside it is "M600" and not "m600" some 3d printer terminals, like the one in OctoPrint, auto upper case any characters.

        I guess you need to enable preview view or something like that. I guess there is also a mode which allows you to visualize the print process incl. the print head movements. This mode should clearly show the support, too.

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        • #5
          Prusaslicer inserts the M600 command not me. I haven't been able to make it work. Prusaslicer works good for everyone else except me, but then of course I am old and brain dead. I am probably doing some little thing wrong.

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          • #6
            I just had a very great experience on the Prusa slicer forum. About half an hour after I left a query about my support enhancer problem I got a reply that gave me a full explanation for why it cannot work and another way to brace my vertical swinging in the wind lithophanes. Right click on the object and click on add part and you get something that isn't a support it is an addition to the object and making a thin little wal that just touches the litho at ninety degrees works very well. I am printing this to see if it improves my quality.

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            • #7
              Let's hope it works. You are printing 0.12mm layers, right?

              Comment


              • roon4660
                roon4660 commented
                Editing a comment
                Actually this is the first time I've used 0.12 layer height and it seems to be quite an improvement over my other lithophanes but it takes more than twice as long to print. I can't believe how long it is taking.

              • Ender5r
                Ender5r commented
                Editing a comment
                Yes, and I don't recommend it for everything, but, for something like a litho, where detail is really important, I think 0.12mm layering is the very highest you want to go. If I had some, I would use even smaller nozzles, so I could print at layering of 0.08mm, or even finer. They would take a long time but, oh man, the quality

            • #8
              I use to CAD design the supports exactly as i wanted and import them with the main model into CURA as supports. The results are awsome every time!
              Thinking simple is the hardest way.....

              Comment


              • roon4660
                roon4660 commented
                Editing a comment
                That is very interesting. For Newbies like me understanding the possibilities is the real education.

              • roon4660
                roon4660 commented
                Editing a comment
                That is very interesting. For Newbies like me understanding the possibilities is the real education.

            • #9
              Good news: PrusaSlicer 2.2 Alpha with included Creality Ender 3 Profile

              Cheers

              Comment


              • #10
                I did a test and my brim actually gave me better results than the solid brace. I think its better from my experience to print on the x axis and not on the y. But I havean ender 3 pro and the bed moves back and forth. To really test it I should do the bracing on the x axis and see what happens. I don't mind printing it again because it is one of my favorite pictures that my ex took of my daughter getting mobbed by the lids on the beach in St. Barth. About 10 years ago or maybe more. I attempted again to take some pics of my lithophanes but I have a lot of trouble.

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                • #11
                  On a moving bed printer I would think that it would be better to print on the X axis and avoid as much bed movement as possible. That said, when printing lithos, I would likely slow down all of the acceleration speeds. In my Cura they are all pretty much set to 500mm/sec. On a thin litho, with a moving bed, I would likely set them to 25mm/sec; try to really make sure the bed doesn't move so quickly it rocks the litho back and forth.

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                  • #12
                    That sounds like good advice, I am sort of a half assed perfectionist when I really want to do something nice. Any advice on taking pictures of lithophanes?

                    Comment


                    • #13
                      It all depends on what type of camera. On the smartphone it will be more difficult. Ideally, you would use a DSLR and set it to manual. That way, you can set the f-stop and shutter speed to fixed values. For example, I would set the shutter speed to 1/125 and then take a series of shots, varying the f-stop from f3.5 to f16. I would then pick the 1 with the best exposure. On a phone, you may or may not have that kind of flexibility.

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                      • #14
                        I had a tablet but have never had a cell phone in my life and most probably will never have one. I have a little olympus automatic camera with no f stop controls that I can see. I wonder if adjusting the light inside the or behind the lithophane would do the trick. I'm not buying any cameras. Not at the moment. My motto is do with what you have, if you can.

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                        • #15
                          If you give me the model of the camera I can likely check out what controls it has.

                          Comment


                          • roon4660
                            roon4660 commented
                            Editing a comment
                            I forgot to get back to you on this. Olympus Stylus 300 Digital

                          • Ender5r
                            Ender5r commented
                            Editing a comment
                            Your camera doesn't have an actual Manual Exposure mode, but it does have Exposure Compensation or +/- 2 f-stops. That might well be enough.
                            You first press the OK button, then the ^ arrow button. This gets you into the Exposure Compensation section of the menus. You should see an icon at the top of the screen with a white + on black, and a black - on white.
                            I suspect you're getting images that are too light. To compensate for this, press the V arrow. This will tell the camera to darken the photo it takes. Start off by setting it all the way to -2 f-stops. See how it looks on the screen. If it's too dark, press the ^ arrow to lighten it a bit.
                            When you see a decent looking image on the screen take a photo. Copy it to your computer and see how it looks there.
                            Last edited by Ender5r; 08-30-2020, 05:37 PM.
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