Ender 5 Pro (dd) The bed was shaking very hard

[Leo]

A new print (PLA), a new problem. In the end the prince came out well but I thought my bed jumped off the stand. I checked and Z didn't seem to move while the bed was shaking. I have printed this roll in different versions but now is the first time I fall when the bed is shaking !!!
What can it be?
Watch the sound clip. The noise is from the trembling bed.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aSGHHTfvGQvSeWCS8

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5PDb2ZtkPZ4WEsbD7

[Geit]

Not sure if I see/hear what you see/hear.

The rattling sound and bed shaking while it is driving diagonal over the wheel is from the infill.

That´s kind of normal. Its like driving over cobblestones. Especially during the first layers this easily could sound scary as the first layer may be thicker than the actual Z layer height. Due to the expansion of the filament on the next level the nozzle is touching the grid from the infill a little. While driving over, it is like running along a fence with a stick pointing into it or a bike with a playing card in the wheel, which causes the rattling noise. Also it happens mostly when closing the infill/support, where the nozzle is hopping on and off the infill walls.

But why is it rattling when printing the infill itself you may ask. There is no gap, so there is nothing the nozzle can bump into. Right? Well, no.

Actually there is a bump. You have a grid pattern and each intersection gets printed on twice. Like when drawing a grid of lines onto a paper. The sections where the lines are intersecting each other seem to be darker. That is because they got painted twice. So your printer is firing the Morse code again long, short, long short at high speed causing a grumppy sound.

The Z shaking you experience is caused by the nozzle pushing the bed down, when driving over the infill wall and the bed springing back when the nozzle is hovering on the opening. This not only creates the noise, but also the vibration of the bed. That is one reason the springs are there to compensate.

However. That rattling is nothing you need to be concerned of. The print quality will not be affected as this happens on infill or on the first wall layer which covers it. The only ways to reduce the behaviour is to reduce speed (like you do in the car with speed bumps), change the infill pattern to zickzack or 3D where the infill lines never intersect or change the infill density to a lower grade. Usually it gets really loud and scary when the printer gets into resonance due to the infill printing.

I hope this helped.

[Leo]

I also printed the same wheel, with a slightly different design, and I did not notice this behavior. I think that if the nose pressed on the piece, the piece would have flown off the bed. The tremors are very strong. But if nothing explodes and the pices comes out comes to an end ... what more can I say?

[Geit]

I also printed the same wheel, with a slightly different design, and I did not notice this behavior. I think that if the nose pressed on the piece, the piece would have flown off the bed. The tremors are very strong. But if nothing explodes and the pices comes out comes to an end ... what more can I say?

The surface of the part is far to big to get the part kicked from the bed.

Especially during the print, where the head bed is on and the bed adhesion is at max. This may only happen with parts having a very small footprint on the build plate.

Just see how much force it takes to peel it off after a print finished, once it is cooled. I guess you can bend the build surface, which makes it quite easy. There is no way a part that size gets loose because of the nose is rubbing the infill unless the first layer was not sticking in the first place.

[Ender5r]

Geit From what you say it sounds like changing infill pattern would be a good way to go. I wonder if 3D Honeycomb would be a good choice.

[Geit]

I mostly use ZigZak infill. That is just one line and it gets rotated every layer.

However I would just reduce speed, if there is not time pressure involved and you want ensure to get the best quality.

You should also check if your bed is levelled and the e-steps are correctly set. If your Z axis is moving 0.18 instead of 0.2 you increase that sound, too. Also your measurements are wrong when you need precision on parts you print.

Use calipers on the printer to measure if a movement of 20mm is actually 20mm. Do not use calibration cubes. Yes, that may work, but you just calibrate your current slicer settings with the current printer settings, while you should setup the hardware correctly before compensating filament behaviour inside the slicer using calibration cubes.

[Ender5r]

LOL, I was trying to look up ZigZak in Cura and realized you must mean Zig Zag. Duh! 😵
I wonder, is it possible that, in German, Zig Zag is ZigZak? That would be interesting.

[Geit]

LOL, I was trying to look up ZigZak in Cura and realized you must mean Zig Zag. Duh! 😵
I wonder, is it possible that, in German, Zig Zag is ZigZak? That would be interesting.

No, I tried to guess what the English name is. In German it is "Zick Zack", so I guessed one char wrong

[Ender5r]

No, I tried to guess what the English name is. In German it is "Zick Zack", so I guessed one char wrong

Ah, cool. So, zig-zag in English is zick-zack in German. Neat. I love that kind of stuff.

[Leo]

In Romania Zig-zag is still zig-zag !!
I redesigned the roller and used Gyroid infill (PrusaSlicer). I no longer had the problem with trembling.

[Ender5r]

Great to hear. Sometimes it's as simple as changing infill pattern.