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  • Diagnostics Please

    Ender 3 Pro

    New Nozzle as of last night with the change of the Filament had been running PETG
    Filament TTYT3D Shine PLA Filament
    I have adjusted the Z offset any lower and I get grinding, any higher the filament wont lay down
    Bed Temp. 50
    Nozzle 220
    BL Touch
    Glass Bed with PEI on top
    Capricorn Bowden Tubing

    I have also paper leveled the bed to see if there is anything crazy out of wack especially on that left hand side. All good.
    My next step is to go after E Step AGAIN.

    any thing else? I will only test one thing at a time. Really don't want to buy anything else except maybe a glue stick.. hahahah.


    Making on an Ender Pro 3, BL Touch, Octopi

  • #2
    The glue stick might be the key. It worked for me for PETG. I have't really needed it for PLA though. I do run my bed @ 60C for PLA (80C for PETG). My normal PLA hotend temp is around 190C.
    I see you don't want to buy anything, but I will mention that the AnyCubic Ultrabase has proven really good for me for PLA.

    Comment


    • irvshapiro
      irvshapiro commented
      Editing a comment
      I have found Magigoo while a bit expensive works perfectly for all materials. I use it on a range of surface types including glass, the Creality magnetic surfaces, and Monoprice surfaces. Even if the material sticks well I still use it to make part removal easier.

  • #3
    Agreed-raise your bed temperature to 60C or 65C. I drop mine to 55 or 50 after the first few layers. The nozzle temperature is fine for this (lowering would reduce stringing). I use Magigoo or Dimafix on glass for taller prints. Clean the bed with alcohol if you haven't already. I like to use this STL with a skirt for calibrating Z-offset because it allows more opportunity to observe and do live Z-offset adjustments (I feel the lines with my finger as the lines are laid down for adhesion and roundness).

    Some other info might also be helpful:
    • Line width?
    • Initial layer line height?
    • Initial layer speed?
    • Initial layer flow?
    • Z-offset used for the images and Z-offset that causes grinding? (I'm not sure what is happening here. My printer MP10 Mini adjusts in 0.01mm increments.)
    Lastly, check the filament diameter in several places. If the diameter is significantly under 1.75mm, there would not be enough to "squash" the bead.

    I'm guessing the filament diameter might be a bit small and that fine tuning the Cura flow (or nozzle) setting and playing a bit more with the Z-offset will get you where you want to be. I think you are close. I have some TTY3D Shine multicolor sitting here that I plan on using, so very interested in how it goes!

    Cheers

    P.S. -- Hope I'm not too pedantic above, but I just had someone ask me what a slicer was on Facebook.

    Comment


    • #4
      Just did a fine tuning of my E Step.. and this time I disconnected the Bowden tube to exclude the nozzle and ended up with my settings going right back to just about factory settings.
      Alan, I used my calipers to measure and the filament is a bit small as you suspected. 1.69 consistently

      Line Width: .4
      Initial Layer Line height: .2
      Initial Layer Speed: .50
      Initial Layer Flow: 100


      and no.. not too pedantic. I am very new to this and my vocabulary is growing daily. I am taking lots of notes.

      Going to run a flow test to see how that goes.

      Thanks for helping me.

      m

      Making on an Ender Pro 3, BL Touch, Octopi

      Comment


      • #5
        You might try bumping up the initial layer height to 0.3mm and/or slowing the initial layer speed down* for better adhesion.

        Good Luck!

        * Slowing the printer down is the general cure for many printer problems. In this case, I'm paranoid about the first few layers so I typically print them at 33%, ranging from 15 to 30 mm/s depending on the part and my paranoia level.

        Comment


        • #6
          I've found this guy's method pretty useful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gz8lieo0Nx8

          Comment


          • #7
            Ok.. I have a complete print. Not perfect.. but it is a start. Lesson learned about trying to change too many things at one time.
            New Bowden tubing, BL Touch install and new bed surface..
            I ended up taking the PEI surface off the glass.
            I double checked the eStep. and adjusted.

            Making on an Ender Pro 3, BL Touch, Octopi

            Comment


            • #8
              Not a bad CaliCat. The 'blobbing' in the inside of the ears could be: 1) over-extrusion, which seems unlikely since you've just calibrated E steps or 2) a flow control issue between your Octoprint and the Ender 3 controller, as discussed in the video I linked earlier. And is that layer separation I see near the bottom of the feet?
              All in all, though, it looks pretty good.

              Comment


              • #9
                What looks like layer separation is the design separating the paws from the legs. :-)
                Yes I noticed the zits on the ears and will trouble shoot that. I am just happy I got this far!
                I think I will investigate flow rate next.
                Making on an Ender Pro 3, BL Touch, Octopi

                Comment


                • #10
                  I do recommend the video I linked to earlier to set flow rate, the one by the Aussie who looks like Elon Musk's son. 😄

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